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The illustrations from:

Costumes Orientaux
Recueil de costumes et vêtements de l'Empire ottoman au 18e siècle
Collection of costumes and clothing of the Ottoman Empire in the 18th century
Owned by Joseph Gabriel Monnier


1 Le Grand Seigneur : Sultan Abdul Amith en l'année 1774
Abdülhamid



2 Le Sultan sur son trône recevant un ambassadeur
Abdülhamid enthroned



3 Haséki Sultana ou sultane favorite
Haseki Sultan



4 Serraï ou Mayoundé Quetghuda Kadun, intendante des femmes du sérail
Kahya Kadın



5 Falakagi Kadun, femme chargée de châtier les autres femmes du sérail
Falakacı Kadın



6 Bou Kisi serraï enderoundé tchalas ribab : fille jouant dans l'intérieur du sérail d'un instrument nommé ribab
Rebab Çalan



7 Serraï anmaioundé tambouri kadun : fille jouant dans l'intérieur du sérail d'un instrument nommé tambouri
Tambur Çalan



8 Nay tchalan : femmes jouant de l'instrument Nay
Ney Çalan



9 Santour tchalan : femmes jouant dans le sérail de l'instrument nommé santour
Santur Çalan



10 Miscal tchalan : femme jouant dans le sérail d'un instrument nommé miscal
Mızıka Çalan



11 Quéman tchalan : femme jouant dans le sérail d'un instrument nommé quéman
Keman (violin) Çalan (player)



12 Hannendé daïré tchalan : fille jouant dans le sérail d'un instrument nommé daïré
Daire Çalan



13 Cherbetgi Kadun : femme servant le cherbet au grand seigneur, le sultan
Şerbetçi Kadın



14 Natur Kadun : femme qui frotte et essuie au bain le grand seigneur (le sultan) et ses femmes
Natır Kadın



15 Kamadan Chican : femme servant dans le bain
Hamamdan Çikan Kadın



16 Kiz iattugui vakitté : femme prête à se coucher
Ayartıcı Bir Kız



17 Chab Zadé : fils du grand seigneur, le sultan
Şehzade



18 Kizlar Aghaffi : grand eunuque noir qui a la garde des femmes et des plaisirs du sultan, et l'intendance des revenus de toutes les mosquées
Kızlarağası



19 Khaznadar Agha : second eunuque noir ayant la garde du trésor particulier du sultan
Haznedar Ağa



20 Bach capon harem oglani : portier de la première entrée du harem
Harem Oğlanı



21 Mabindgi : eunuque servant le harem
Mâbeynci



22 Ak agha : chef des eunuques blancs lesquels n'entrent point chez les femmes du grand seigneur
Ak Ağa (aka Bâbü’s-saâde Ağası & Kapı Ağası)



23 Ak Agha tchadjesi : eunuque blanc et nain du grand seigneur, le sultan
Cüce



24 Khastalar ak aghassi : eunuque blanc intendant de l'hôpital des eunuques blancs
Haznedar ak ağa



25 Seliktar agha en cérémonie, porte sabre du grand seigneur, premier officier des blancs du sérail et qui ne quitte cet emploi que pour être pacha
Silahtar Ağa



26 Seliktar agha en habit ordinaire
Silahtar Ağa



27 Tchokadar agha le premier valet de pied du grand seigneur, le sultan
Çuhadar ağa



28 Tchokadar agha le premier valet de pied du grand seigneur, le sultan, en habit ordinaire
Çuhadar ağa



29 Hassequi en habit de cérémonie formant la garde rapprochée du grand seigneur
Haseki Ağa



30 Hassequi en habit ordinaire formant la garde rapprochée du grand seigneur
Haseki Bostancı



31 Kilerli endéroun aghassi : garde de l'office du grand seigneur le sultan
Kilerli Enderun Ağası



32 Hriktar agha : porte aiguière du sultan pour lui donner de l'eau lorsqu'il veut se laver les mains
İbrikdar-Ağa



33 Iskemledgi bachi : porte tabouret du grand seigneur, le sultan
İskemleci Başı



34 Rikiap sobaï : l'homme chargé de marcher à côté du cheval du sultan
Rikab Solak



35 Durbendar Agha : porte turban du grand seigneur, le sultan
Dulbend Ağa



36 Khas odalu : un des quarante pages de la chambre particulière du grand seigneur, le sultan
Iç Ağa (aka Enderun Ağa)



37 Battadgilar Ketqudasi, chef des Battadgis
Baltacılar kethüdası



38 Zouloufli Battadgi : domestique au sérail
Zülüflü Baltacı



39 Battadgi : ils sont employés dans le sérail à divers services auprès des officiers
Baltacı



40 Kapoudgilar Ketqudasi : commandant des quarante capoudgis bachis qui sont les grands officiers du sultan
Kapıcılar Kethüdası (aka Mir-i alem)



41 Serraï Oumaïnoundé Capoudgissi : portier des entrées du sérail
Kapıcı of the Bab-ı Hümayun



42 Salahor, écuyers ordinaires du sultan
Çuhadar



43 Unkiar sir kiatib : premier secrétaire du sultan
Sır Katibi



44 Mouté Ferrika tchaoux : officier des gardes du corps du sultan
Müteferrika Çavuş



45 Amaktar Agha : le gardien des clefs du sérail
Anahtarlarının ağa



46 Itch Oglan Tchaoussi : officier des pages du sultan
İç Oglan Çavuş



47 Khas Akhourti : officier ayant inspection sur les chevaux et les écuries du sultan
Palace Groom



48 Dilsiz : l'un des muets du sultan
Dilsiz



49 Etchi Bachi Kiatib : secrétaire du chef des cuisines
Aşçıbaşı Katibi



50 Unkiar Tchokadar : valet de pied du sultan
Hünkâr Çuhadar



51 Halvadgi : garçon de l'office du sultan
Helvacı



52 Botstandgi bachi : chef des botstandghis, gardes de divers palais
Bostancı Başı



53 Vézir Azem : grand vizir
Sadr-ı âzam



54 Defterdar effendi : surintendant des finances
Defterdar Efendi



55 Reis effendi : Grand Chancelier ministre des affaires étrangères et chef des bureaux du divan impérial
Reis-ül Küttab



56 Tchavouch bachi : chef des huissiers
Çavuşbaşı



57 Teskeredgi effendi : maître des requêtes
Teşrifâtçi efendi



58 Capou terjuman : grand drogman (interprête) de la Porte
Kapi Tercümani



59 Musdedgi bachi : chef des courriers de cabinet
Müjdeci Başı



60 Alaï tchavouch : homme qui précède le Vizir, responsable du protocole vis à vis du Pacha, lors des audiences.
Alay Çavuşu



61 Divan tchavouch : huissier de la chambre du conseil
Divan Çavuşu



62 Bach tchokadar : chef des valets de pied du Vizir
Baş Çuhadar



63 Vézir karakonlaki : espion du Vizir
Haseki Bostancı



64 Ravas : bourreau qui accompagne le Vizir
Kavvâs



65 Surré émini : intendant chargé de l'argent envoyé à la Mecque
Sürre emini



66 Chatir bahi Vézir : il précède le Vizir et écarte les gens devant lui
Şatır Başı



67 Muphti : chef de la loi musulmane
Şeyh-ül-islâm



68 Cazilesquier : grand juge qui nomme les juges subalternes dans les provinces, les cadis
Kadiasker



69 Nakib échéref effendi : chefs des émirs
Nakib-ül Eşraf



70 Cadi : juge d'une ville
Kadi



71 Nakib écherif tchaouch : huissier de justice
Nakib-ül Eşraf Çavuş



72 Mahalé imani : Imam
Mahalle imam



73 Muezin effendi : crieur de la mosquée qui monte sur le minaret pour appeler les musulmans à la prière
Müezzin



74 Uléma bach tchokadar : premier valet des gens de loi
Orta yasecı



75 Bektachi : moine derviche
Bektaşi Dervişi



76 Mewlevi : derviche tourneur
Mevlevi Derviş



77 Zombouli : derviche
Sünbülî Dervişi



78 Babaï : derviche
Babaî Dervişi



79 Roufaï Cheïk : chef spirituel de la confrérie soufie Roufaï
Rufaî derviş



80 Etémi : derviche
Etemi dervish?



81 Roufaï : derviche
Rufai derviş



82 Ouchaki : derviche
Dervish from Uşak?



83 Maxi bendi : derviche
Maxi bendi dervish



84 Medgnoum : derviche
Arap derviş



85 Arab derviche : derviche arabe
Arap derviş



86 Missali derviche : derviche égyptien
Egyptian dervish



87 Hadgi : pèlerin
Mekke’de Türk



88 Renisseri aghassi : général des Janissaires
Yeniçeri Ağası



89 Sournadgi bachi : Grand Officier des Janissaires
Turnaçıbaşı



90 Tchobadgi bachi : colonel des Janissaires
Çorbaçı başı



91 Oda bachi : Capitaine des Janissaires
Odabaşı



92 Baïraktar : enseigne porte-drapeau
Bayrakdâr- Alemdâr



93 Muksur aghassi : officier des Janissaires servant d'huissier à la porte du divan, le conseil du sultan
Muhzırbaşı



94 Khassas bachi : officier des Janissaires chargé de leur surveillance
Asesbaşı



95 Capelan posteli irénisseri : Janissaire chargé de mettre et d'ôter les peaux de tigres des chevaux du sultan
Harbeci



96 Solak bachi : commandant des Solaks, tirés du corps des janissaires chargés de veiller à la sureté publique de Constantinople
Solakbaşı



97 Unkdar peïk : janissaire, garde du corps du sultan dans les cérémonies
Peyk



98 Etihi bachi : chef de cuisine, officier des Janissaires
Aşçıbaşı



99 Jenisseri saka : officier subalterne, porteur d'eau des janissaires
Sakabaşı



100 Jenisseri karakouloukchi : bas officier des janissaires
Karakullukçusu



101 Salma tchokadar : officier subalterne des Janissaires, commandant de la patrouille de police
Salma Çuhadarı



102 Jenisseri kecheli : Janissaire en habit de cérémonie
Yeniçeri



103 Séferhe endéroun aghassi : archer
Seferlı Enderun Ağası



104 Serdenguesti : soldat Janissaire en tenue de combat
Serdengeçti



105 Mefer ienisseri : soldat Janissaire de la garde de police
Janissary on patrol



106 Aide de camps du Janissaire agha
ADC to the Yeniçeri Ağası



107 Sadi Saïmen : Janissaire en garnison
Acemoğlan, Şadı



108 Bostandgi bahi sir kiatibi : secrétaire du Bostanghi Bachi
Bostancı Başı Sirr Kitab



109 Spahi : soldat de cavalerie
Atlı sipahi



110 Sopgi bahi : Général des canonniers
Topçubaşi



111 Sopgi : canonnier
Topçu



112 Combaradgi : bombardier
Humbaracı



113 Capitan Pacha : Grand Amiral de l'Empire
Kaptan Paşa



114 Beylick Capoudan : capitaine de vaisseau
Kapudâne Bey



115 Capoudan Pacha Tchaoussi : officier de marine, lieutenant de vaisseau
Hüseyin Fazıl Bey, a Kaptan Paşa



116 Galiondgi Bournasseilé : enseigne de vaisseau, marin en bournasse ou burnous
Kalyoncu



117 Galiondgi : soldat de marine
Kalyoncu



118 Laze Ademi : habitant des côtes de la Mer noire, marin de profession
Cellat



119 Unkiar kaiktchisi tufanalu : rameur des felouques du sultan
Hünkâr kayıkçısı



120 Missir Bey : l'un des vingt-quatre Beys qui gouvernent l'Egypte
Mısır Beyi



121 Kurdgi : musulman des provinces de l'Empire, non né à Constantinople
Deveci



122 Boursali : habitant de Brousse (actuelle Bursa en Turquie) et de ses environs
Bursali Asker



123 Habitant de la Mecque
Inhabitant of Mecca



124 Satar aghassi : gentilhomme tartare
Tatar ağası



125 Halepli : homme d'Alep
Halepli



126 Dgézirlu : Algérien
Kalyoncu



127 Hadgi Kadun : femme qui va en pélerinage à la Mecque
Hac Kıyafetgyle



128 Soulombadgi : pompier pour les incendies
Tulumbacı Yeniçeri



129 Tchokadar : domestique turc
Çuhadar



130 Saka : porteur d'eau
Saka



131 Cumurdgi : charbonnier
Hamal



132 Halvadgi : marchand de confitures
Helvacı



133 Gébildgi : homme qui vend de l'eau aux passants
Sebilci



134 Hamale : portefaix
Hamal?



135 Pachalerugn alaï tchouassi : bouffon des pachas
Sersop (aka zırzop)



136 Déli Tchaoux : fou ou bouffon
Kamber



137 Iasmaklu férégésiz kari : femme turque en iasmak sans ferrégé
Peralı Sokaktan Kadın



138 Férégélu osmanlu karisi : femme turque en ferrégé dans les rues
Sokaktaki Türk kadını



139 Arab Agarié : esclave noire au marché
Köle



140 Evêque grec en habits pontificaux
Greek Bishop in Pontifical Vestments



141 Papas grec, marié en habits sacerdotaux
Greek father, married, in priestly clothes



142 Papas non marié en habit ordinaire
Greek father, not married, in ordinary clothes



143 Grec en colpaque
A Greek man



144 Calfa ou architecte grec
Rum Kalfa



145 Taouchan : Grec des îles de Tine ou de Syra (île de Syros)
Greek man from the island of Tinos or Syros



146 Esclavon : habitant de l'Esclavonie (actuelle Slavonie, région de Croatie)
A Slavonian



147 Niphi romessa : fille grecque en tenue de mariée
Greek girl in bridal attire



148 Dame grecque
Greek lady



149 Servante grecque des îles
Greek servant of the islands



150 Fille de l'île de Marmara
Girl from Marmara Island



151 Fille de l'île de Chio
Girl from the island of Chios



152 Juif
A Jewish man



Recueil de costumes et vêtements de l'Empire ottoman au 18e siècleCollection of costumes and clothing of the Ottoman Empire in the 18th century
Auteur: Monnier, Joseph Gabriel (1745-1818 ; colonel du génie)Author: Monnier, Joseph Gabriel (1745-1818, Colonel of the Engineers)
Date: 1786-07-11Dated: 1786-07-11
Langue: françaisLanguage: French
Dimensions: 7.7 x 24.8 cm
Droits d'utilisation: Ville de Bourg-en-Bresse ; libre de droit et convention de prêt pour le fichier originalRights of Use: City of Bourg-en-Bresse; Free of charge and loan agreement for the original file
Held by Ville de Bourg-en-Bresse, Ms 65
Now viewable at culture.bourgenbresse.fr & europeana

The captions, in French, are listed on a number of separate pages.



3.1.3. Istanbul Traveler Monnier's Album

The ones mentioned so far were the albums in which the works of the Greek painter were used as models. An original album by the artist's own hand could illuminate all the points discussed here. It was possible to reach the works of the artist himself by examining the albums -most of which are copies- scattered around the world. One of them will be mentioned here, an album in France that contains most of the works copied by European painters. This album completely explains what kind of an album the copied original will be. The album titled Recueil des Costumes Turcs (Turkish Costumes Series) is in the Municipal Library in Bourg-en Bresse, near Paris, and belongs to an engineer named Joseph-Gabriel Monnier (1745-1818).132

Born in Bourg-en-Bresse, as the son of a medical doctor, Joseph Gabriel Monnier was educated at the Ecole de Génie de Mézirèes and became a French Royal engineer. He came to Istanbul for the first time on 16 July 1784 as an assistant to Lafitte-Clavé. Monnier, who was the military advisor of the Ottoman armies, resided in Istanbul between 1784-1786 and for the second time between 1793-1797.133

Between 1783 and 1788, many French experts and officers came to Istanbul within the framework of cooperation between the Ottoman and France. The first to arrive were the fortification engineers, who started to strengthen the fortification of the Bosphorus against a possible Russian attack.

During these years, it was determined that experts in the fields of artillery, shipbuilding and more than fifty engineers, foremen and workers came to Istanbul.134 He contributed to the realization of modern engineering education in the Ottoman country by giving lectures on fortification. Lafitte-Clavé and Gabriel Monnier mapped the Bosphorus and Black Sea walls and presented them to the French government and the Grand Vizier Halil Hamid Pasha, in reports containing their other works.135

Monnier wrote the following in his diary on July 11, 1786, about the 152 illustrated watercolor albums he acquired while he was on duty in Istanbul: 136

"I organized my Eastern corpus which made up a collection of 152 pictures and classified them into 9 notebooks... This collection was painted by a Greek, and Turkish names were written partly by Mr. Trécourt, a French language student, and partly by Mustafa Kalyoncu, a Turk."137

As it turns out, Monnier, one of the engineers who came to the Ottoman country, ordered this album with 152 pictures, which includes Ottoman types from all walks of life, and had the opportunity to both keep a record of where he lived and get to know people from the protocol with pictures. Monnier also did not mention the name of the person he referred to as the Greek painter in his diary while naming the authors of the painting descriptions. This issue can be explained as follows: As mentioned above, in this period when ancient experts and enthusiasts increased, the word 'Greek' came before the name of the artist, so it was used to express a value, a more important concept that goes back to ancient origins. The authors expressed that they supported the policies of their countries, knowing the Greek culture and language for the travelers, and their missions. Therefore, if they talked about a 'Greek' friend and culture in their diaries and works to be published, it would have emphasized that they supported this, that they knew this culture or that they had made acquaintances.138

The album contains 152 paintings measuring 37.7 x 24.8 cm and begins with two portraits of Sultan Abdulhamid I, one standing and the other seated. One of these portraits resembles works attributed to Rafael Manas, one of the painters of the period. Ottoman descriptions are written on the lower right corner of each of the figures in the album. Again, French definitions written according to Ottoman pronunciation were included in a separate list in Monnier's diary. For example, he wrote halvadgi in the 132nd place in the list, which is the figure of the halva maker no. 132 in the album.

All of the paintings are single figures and there is no themed scene presenting a section from daily life. Monnier, who was trying to get to know the Ottomans, ordered them and returned to his country in 1786 with this album among the information he obtained and the notes he took.139

The creator of Monnier's album and, in our opinion, the producer of the albums copied in the Polish and Swedish albums mentioned above, the person we now call the Greek painter, used Vanmour's works while creating his own patterns and developed them as mentioned. The artist's use of sources other than Vanmour's works while creating his albums and the way he followed when creating original works became more visible with the discovery of his new albums. Since other European artists copied the Greek artist's albums exactly, they created the impression that they had compiled their albums by making use of Vanmour, various sources and the works of this artist separately.

Again, when we look at the style, it seems that the Monnier album was written by the same hand, e.g. başçuhadar, peyk, zülüflü baltacı, kayıkçı, kızlararğası, haznedar ağa, alay çavuşu, tercüman, müftü, another album containing figures in almost the same mould was found. It has been understood that this album, which is in the British Museum today and known as the Diez Album, and the Monnier Album are original examples made by the Greek painter. Therefore, painters working around the Polish and Swedish embassies made copies of an album similar to the Diez and Monnier Albums. At this point, it will be useful to introduce the Diez Album, which is from the collection of an orientalist.

Source: OSMANLI KIYAFET ALBÜMLERİ (1770-1810) by Nurdan KÜÇÜKHASKÖYLÜ

See a comparison of illustrations after Octavien d'Alvimart, in Miller's Costume of Turkey, 1802 with Ottoman produced albums.



Other Albums:
I Turchi. Codex Vindobonensis 8626 of Bartolemeo von Pezzen, 1586 to 1591
Military Pictures from Peter Mundy's Album, A briefe relation of the Turckes, 1618
Military Pictures from Hans Sloan's The Habits of the Grand Signor's Court, c.1620
Pictures from the Zamoyski Album, 1640-1648
Pictures from the Ralamb Costume Book, 1657
Illustrations of Ottomans in Heinrich Friedrich von Diez's Album Costumes Turcs, c.1790
"Dessins originaux de costumes turcs", Bibliothèque nationale de France, MS 4-OD-23, c.1789-1807
Recueil de peintures (costumes turcs), Bibliothèque nationale de France, MS Smith-Lesouëf 228
Stratford Canning's Pictures of Turkey, c.1809, Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Album of Turkish Costume Paintings Presented to Alexander III, Tsar of Russia, 1867 - NYPL Digital Collections

Other 19th century Illustrations of Ottomans
Voyage à Athènes et à Constantinople ou Collection de portraits, de vues, et de costumes grecs et ottomans by Louis Dupré, 1825
"The fall of Constantinople" by Panagiotos Zografos, 1836

Ottoman Illustrations of Costume & Soldiers in the 15th to 19th Centuries